A Taste of New Orleans: Charbroiled Oysters & Must-Eat Restaurants

New Orleans — birthplace of jazz, famous for its Creole and Cajun food, historic architecture and, of course, Mardi Gras.

Here, a fanatical foodie chases down the tastiest bites in town for SPARK.

Chasing a Craving

The last time I was in New Orleans, in 2009, I became obsessed with charbroiled oysters — oysters on the half shell slathered in garlic butter and Parmesan cheese, then broiled over an open flame until bubbling. Delicious. Addictive.

So when I had the chance to tag along on my wife’s recent business trip to the Big Easy, I jumped — and began researching my food fest.

The New Orleans food scene has always been well documented, but in recent years it has received renewed attention. I was ready for two days of gastronomic excess.

Garden District Breakfast

Our hotel was located in the historic Garden District, known for its antebellum mansions and quieter pace compared with the hustle of the French Quarter.

Right across the street was Mother’s, a legendary hole-in-the-wall restaurant famous for its po’boys and other Creole comfort food — a must-try.

Breakfast at Mother’s (served “all day”) consisted of one debris po’boy — roast beef piled high with “debris” and soaked in gravy — and one ham po’boy with thick slices of its self-proclaimed “World’s Best Baked Ham.”

On presentation, the sandwiches didn’t look like much. Three bites in, though, and we were sold. The soft yet crusty rolls delivered just the right bite for the sumptuous meats.

We were off to a good start.

Middle Eastern Meets the Gulf

That night, we reserved a table at Saba, an Israeli restaurant that melds Middle Eastern dishes with Gulf Coast ingredients and cooking styles. The dining room was modern yet warm, with a comfortable vibe.

We started with crab hummus served with freshly baked pita bread, followed by roast chicken with sumac and lemon, grilled flounder with black beans and Middle Eastern spices, and a side of Persian rice studded with pomegranate seeds. We loved every bite.

Seafood and a Showstopper Dessert

The next night, we headed to Peche Seafood Grill, known for its simply prepared, wood-fired Gulf seafood. The place was jumping, with a large bar and an open kitchen.

Our meal was delicious — whole grilled sea bass, a baked drum, which is a type of mild, slightly sweet white fish local to New Orleans — but we devoured it before remembering to photograph our dishes (oops). At our waiter’s urging, we ordered the toffee crunch with cream cheese ice cream for dessert, and it turned out to be transformative.

It’s a warm toffee cake with brown butter sauce. The cream cheese ice cream adds a tangy contrast to the sweetness, keeping your fork coming back for more. I did remember to photograph this one.

Finally, the Oysters

I thoroughly enjoyed my two dinners, but I still hadn’t had my charbroiled oysters.

On my last afternoon before heading home, I made a pilgrimage to Drago’s, the originator of the dish. After a dozen oysters, plus crusty French bread to sop up the buttery, cheesy spillover, I was finally satisfied — and ready to go home.

Notes From the Road

• Felix was where I first had charbroiled oysters. They go a bit lighter on the butter there, allowing more of the oyster flavor to shine through. Preference matters.
• Between meals, head to Frenchmen Street for live music. It’s far less touristy and chaotic than Bourbon Street. In fact, if you’re not in college or part of a wedding group, consider skipping Bourbon Street altogether.
• Want to see who’s playing and where? Check out wwoz.org.

Enjoy!

Ilene Findler

Ilene Findler is a television producer, documentary film maker, and a self-proclaimed dining influencer. When she's not traveling she splits her time between New York City's Upper West Side and Miami.