Doing Paris Like a Local in Winter | SPARK Travel

Fewer crowds, great food, and real Paris moments. A personal guide to doing Paris like a local in winter—from ballet to bistros.

I love Paris—like the song says—every moment of the year.

Winter in Paris is one of the best times to visit, especially if you want to experience the city like a local. With fewer tourists, museums and shops are less crowded, it’s easier to get a dinner reservation, and locals are more welcoming. You can’t be bored. It’s lovely.

The Louvre Museum in Paris is always a must-see. Photo by Timea Kadar

Like New York, walking around Paris—even in cold weather—is fascinating and mesmerizing, with treasures around every corner. We enjoy it so much that Christmas in Paris has become our new tradition.

The Palais Garnier, an architectural masterpiece inaugurated in 1875 at the request of Napoleon III, is one of the most dazzling monuments in Paris. Photo courtesy of Palais Garnier
The Palais Garnier (Opera Garnier) is stunning in its architecture and cultural offerings in Paris. Photo by Carol O’Rourke

Ballet, Theater, and Film Favorites

We always go to the Palais Garnier or Opéra Bastille for ballet performances. Théâtre du Châtelet offers some shows in English, and Frenchlation.com is a great resource—it sponsors French films with English subtitles and hosts a reception beforehand.

The flea markets in Paris are a treasure trove of finds, from rare prints, to artwork, to antiques and great kitchen ware. Photo by David Henry

Flea Markets and Fashion Finds

We love scouring flea markets for original fashion drawings from the ’20s and ’30s. Marché aux Puces de St.-Ouen (Clignancourt) is the world’s largest flea market and is divided into themed markets. There’s something special about finding a piece of history you can take home.

Flying and Getting Around Paris

We now fly La Compagnie to Orly. Aside from the traffic to Newark Liberty, this airline makes travel easy: all business class, its own check-in desks, and a separate security line that saves a lot of time at the airport.

Getting around Paris by bus or metro is easy. Walking always a good option and cabs are cheaper than in NYC now. Photo by Carol O’Rourke

We stay in the 6th Arrondissement and take buses whenever we can. There’s so much to see above ground, and riding the bus means avoiding long walks to transfer lines on the Metro.

Eating Well Without Going Overboard

The dollar is weak right now, but it’s still easy to find bistros and brasseries with good food, budget-friendly prices, and decent cocktails. Cab rides are also much more reasonable than in New York City.

Paris anytime of year is always a treat, but winter is especially a good time to go—less crowds, easier to get a reservation, and eat like a local. Photo by David Henry

On our most recent trip in December, we discovered a few new lunch and dinner spots. Our goal was to stay local and spend within reason. (Those days of checking out every Michelin-starred restaurant are in our past.) A few recommendations:

Where We Ate

Le Bistrot de Paris
33 Rue de Lille, 75007 Paris

Le Bistrot de Paris has one of the most delicious profiteroles. Photo courtesy of Bistrot de Paris

A longtime favorite (since 1965), especially if you like duck confit or profiteroles. A classic French bistro with traditional recipes and top-quality ingredients.

Brass
131 Blvd. Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris

Brass is a new chic spot in Paris that stays open late and serves great food and drinks. Photos courtesy of Brass Paris
A new place with a chic 1950s look and feel. Elegant but warm, with red leather banquettes, mosaic floors, and a cozy, woody atmosphere. They make a good cocktail and stay open late—perfect if you’re heading to a performance.

Chez Janou
2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 75003 Paris

Chez Janou is an in spot in the Marais section of Paris. A secret gem with locals, but not for long. Photo courtesy of Chez Janou
Chez Janou's famous chocolate mousse is a must-have in Paris. Photo courtesy of Chez Janou

A busy Marais spot with solid lunch options, including the giant bowl of chocolate mousse they bring around for dessert. Tables are packed, but the service is friendly, and the crowd is a mix of locals, tourists, young, and old. A secret gem—though probably not for long.

Maison de la Truffe (Galeries Lafayette Gourmet)
19 Pl. de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris

Maison de la Truffes at Galeries Lafayettes Maison elevate everything. Photo courtesy of Maison de la Truffes

Head to the counter in the basement and order the fettuccine with truffles. Whether grated finely, crushed, peeled, or in juice form, truffles are always sumptuous.

La Régalade Saint-Honoré
106 Rue Saint-Honoré, Paris

La Régalade Saint-Honoré is warm, inviting rustic restaurant with outstanding traditional French food in Paris. Photo courtesy of La Régalade Saint-Honoré
Poultry crust foie gras at La Régalade Saint-Honoré, a winter dish in a rustic, inviting atmosphere to be treasured. Photo courtesy of a Régalade Saint-Honoré

Another reliable favorite with a prix fixe dinner menu. La Régalade Saint-Honoré is a rustic French bistro with wood beams and stone walls, serving traditional cuisine with a modern touch. Standouts include the house pork terrine, fried snails with mushrooms and chorizo, and the famous rice pudding with dairy caramel.

Trends We Noticed in Paris

The TikTok effect: Long lines of Gen Z travelers from all over the world waiting outside bakeries, chocolate shops, or restaurants that have gone viral.

Vintage clothing: Not inexpensive, but full of real gems. Even Printemps and Galeries Lafayette now have resale departments.

There’s never enough time to see and do everything in Paris. Already looking forward to the next visit.

A walk or boat ride along the Seine is so beautiful and especially lovely in winter. Photo by Carol O’Rourke
Carol O'Rourke

Carol O'Rourke has been a part-time resident of Springs for more than 40 years. She is a certified financial planning professional and enthusiastic traveler.