Spark Getaway: Palm Springs — Mid-Century Glamour, Desert Mountains and Rat Pack History

Snow-capped mountains, mid-century modern design, Rat Pack lore and desert sunshine — why Palm Springs makes a perfect winter escape from New York.

We had never been to Palm Springs, but my husband and I had always wanted to check out the Modernism Show & Sale, which focuses on the mid-century modern design we love.

The main show at the Palm Springs Convention Center runs 11 days each February, with a smaller preview show in the fall. So when friends who have a house in Palm Springs said, “Come visit,” we hopped on a plane in February — and ended up staying an extra four days thanks to a snowstorm back home.

Palm Springs is a great escape from New York in winter. It’s a desert town framed by mountains, about two and a half hours from Los Angeles. If you visit in April, the famous Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival takes place nearby in Indio.

Most surprising to me was the sight of snow-capped mountains while we enjoyed a balmy 75 degrees in the desert. The mountains shift colors throughout the day — green, purple, then deep chocolate brown — an ever-changing backdrop.

Old Hollywood Roots

Palm Springs was once a retreat for Frank Sinatra’s Rat Pack and many other Hollywood celebrities of the 1950s and ’60s.

Today it remains casual, lively and welcoming, with something for everyone: golf, hiking, casinos and a vibrant LGBTQ-friendly scene.

Palm Springs retro vibe. Photo by Carol O'Rourke

Palm Springs, warm casual, getaway in winter. Photo by Carol O'Orourke

In the center of town, the historic Plaza Theatre hosts music, theater and comedy beneath a sparkling ceiling dotted with tiny star lights.

March highlights include An Evening with Charles Busch, discussing his memoir (Mar. 15), as well as Busch’s play The Tale of the Allergist’s Wife (Mar. 13–14). The Naked Magicians also performs there on Mar. 17.

A Museum Surprise

An unexpected treat was the Palm Springs Art Museum. (It’s hard for me to admit there are good museums anywhere but New York.)

The museum’s mid-century modern building houses a well-curated collection of contemporary art along with rotating exhibitions. When we visited in February, shows included works by Mickalene Thomas, Tom Wesselmann and Bob Mackie.

The museum is refreshingly user-friendly, with knowledgeable volunteers who happily answer questions or add context. There’s also a great café next to the Frank and Barbara Sinatra Sculpture Garden.

Apparently the museum once stirred local controversy when it proposed placing a giant statue of Marilyn Monroe at the entrance. Today she stands nearby, towering over a small palm garden.

Desert Style

Fashion-wise, anything goes — though I didn’t see much New York black.

Think Lilly Pulitzer to Lululemon and everything in between.

Where We Ate

Our favorite restaurant in town was Spencer’s, which serves reasonably priced American food with valet parking (this is California) and beautiful outdoor seating beneath the palms.

The location has a storied past. It began as the Palm Springs Tennis Club in 1937, with two tennis courts and a small outdoor pool beneath a cliffside mansion. The club attracted elite tennis players and celebrities including Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope, Marilyn Monroe and Katharine Hepburn.

Spencer’s was later founded by Harold Matzner, a prominent Palm Springs arts patron, who named the restaurant after his 110-pound Siberian husky.

For a retro taste of Palm Springs elegance from decades past, reserve a table at Melvyn’s at the Ingleside Estate. The menu features classics such as seafood towers, shrimp cocktail, French onion soup, wedge salad, steaks, burgers and pasta.

Legend has it Melvyn’s was one of Sinatra’s favorite restaurants, where he liked to order Steak Diane flambé. The restaurant even kept Table 13 open for him — just in case Ol’ Blue Eyes stopped by.

Menu prices are similar to New York’s, though cocktails are almost a bargain by comparison.

Nearby Adventures

The surrounding towns are worth exploring.

Tennis fans should know that Indian Wells hosts the BNP Paribas Open each March at the Indian Wells Tennis Garden — and there’s even a Nobu restaurant on site.

Nature lovers can drive about an hour to Joshua Tree National Park for hiking among its otherworldly desert landscapes.

You can also wander around Pioneertown, a quirky old Western movie set that now feels part ghost town, part art destination.

Golfers should book early — the region is packed with courses.

Exploring the Desert Towns

Palm Springs itself has plenty of shops, restaurants and hotels, and you can easily get around by Uber.

But if you rent a car, you can explore nearby desert communities including La Quinta (where at least one Kardashian reportedly lives), Rancho Mirage and Palm Desert.

Getting There

There are no nonstop flights from New York to Palm Springs, but the airport is right on the edge of town, so once you land you’re practically there.

You can also fly nonstop from New York to Los Angeles or Orange County’s John Wayne Airport and drive a couple of hours — though you’ll have to deal with Southern California traffic.

We flew from New York to Palm Springs via Dallas, and our connecting flight landed right in town.

Since we stayed with friends, I can’t recommend a hotel firsthand, but boutique options worth researching include the Royal Sun Palm Springs and the Avalon Hotel Palm Springs.

Why Palm Springs Works

After a week we rented a car and drove to Los Angeles to visit museums and family.

But what I liked most about Palm Springs was how different it feels from New York — the landscape, the culture, the pace and the people.

There’s a lively arts scene with visual art, music and theater, all layered with a distinct retro vibe.

If you’re looking for a weeklong escape from the Northeast in winter, Palm Springs delivers.

Carol O'Rourke

Carol O'Rourke has been a part-time resident of Springs for more than 40 years. She is a certified financial planning professional and enthusiastic traveler.